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Stonework



To build stonework you just need to be aware that there must be a consistent pattern to the wall. A few ton of stone will have a random mix that's not always clear to distinguish in size or shape.

Unless it's 'dressed', which basically means that a face has been produced, by chiselling the best surface to show at the front of the wall, it will remain natural in shape.

The face of the wall will then be regular in appearance but remain random by nature. Building with stone is achievable with practice, however it will seem daunting at first as structured bricks and blocks are far easier to understand and work with.

One easy way to build stonework is by first erecting a block wall to build against, this allows you some degree of freedom to work, without having to worry about maintaining a solid wall in a material that is difficult to work with.

This is a great method to adopt when constructing low level stonework to patios and garden walls.

The mortar mix should be firmer than that of brickwork mortar but still allowed to flow off the trowel without breaking up. As stone is dense it tends to 'settle' in a heavier fashion than bricks, spoiling the finish.
Any spills of mortar are used for back filling behind whatever has already been laid, together with any loose broken bits and pieces.

This method of using the waste to backup the stonework has the benefit of consolidating the wall, filling any voids and using up waste to benefit the build.

Never be tempted to build the wall by much more than a metre/yard at a time as it'll distort under the weight, which cannot be rectified without taking the wall back down and rebuilding.

A few basic guidelines are;

  • Excavate a foundation that adds 100mm/4" either side of the width of the wall.
    e.g. A wall 300/12" wide requires a 500mm/20" wide foundation.
  • Fill with a 1:3:6 concrete mix at least 150mm/6" in depth for walls up to 600mm/24" high.
    Thereafter add 25mm/1" for every 150mm/6" added to the height.
    e.g. A wall 1800mm/72" high requires a foundation 350mm/14" deep.
  • Depth to start at will depend on ground conditions.
  • Plumb corners and ends using larger stone for stability.
  • Use a string line and level to maintain horizontal and vertical true lines.
  • Backfill as you build with spills of mortar and offcuts of waste to fill voids behind facework.
  • Allow mortar to 'firm' before jointing, then brush lightly with a soft brush when firm to touch.

The difference between jointing and pointing is that;

* Jointing is carried out as you build.

* Pointing is trowelled in after you have built, maybe after a day, a year or 20 years after building, mainly as a repair or when refurbishing old walls.

Any stone walls that are structural or carry weight should be calculated by a qualified person and generally constructed by a qualified mason or bricklayer.

Mike Lyons.....Any questions! Please contact me.

I'd welcome your comments, tips and suggestions, for more information click here

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