Ponds

Before you embark, ponds can be hard work and you'll need to be prepared for a fair bit of hard graft but I think that once you complete the pond it'll be well worth the effort.

Normally on a smaller scale you'll need to;

Dig out a fair sized hole and lose the soil.
Run electrics for a pump or fountain, hopefully installed by a competent diy'er or electrician.
Be prepared to carry out regular maintenance.
Ensure safety for children and animals.

A few questions will need to be answered before you commit to moving half a ton of soil or more with your trusty old spade.

How deep do you want it, ankle deep, knee deep or waste deep?
Do you want your pond primarily for plants?
Will you be stocking it with fish?
Have you considered a small tree close by?
Will there be room for paving or decking?

If we take it in stages or build a pond maybe from the smallest to the grandest we'll get a good idea of how to prepare, build and stock from start to finish.

Firstly decide on size and how it affects you and your family AND the position it will be at.

The soil you remove will appear twice the size when it's removed and you'll need some means of taking it from the area you're working to a skip or lose it somewhere around the garden.

Be aware that only the topsoil is of prime use and the earth below should be used only to 'fill' areas.

If you're building above ground with brickwork or securely fixed sleepers, the method will be similar using either a butyl liner or a rigid liner.

The only difference is a fixed rectangular surround will give no shelves within the water to rest plants on, nevertheless can be very attractive when completed.

More commonly a rigid liner with 'built in shelves' would be used , or a butyl liner to create your own shape.

Whichever type of pond liner you use, you can stand in the dry excavated area to get a feel for the size and depth before you commit to deciding on the final product.

The uppermost edge will need to be finished with paving suitable for ponds or something similar, but before you can 'fix' anything in place ensure you have run any cables from your pump or fountain back to a point of electricity ready for connection.

This can be concealed easily at this stage and depending on how you're connecting to your electrics, should be taken to a dedicated supply on its own trip switch. Don't be tempted to simply run a cable back to a 'normal' socket.

If in any doubt, contact a qualified electrician.

A rigid pond liner will have to be placed into the ground that's level around the top, this can be achieved by digging out a slightly oversized hole, placing the liner in, then pouring dry sand behind the liner to fill voids under and around the outside.

You can now start to fill partly with water to give it some stability. Little by little you'll settle the liner in firmly and by checking the level occasionally, will guide you to completion.

Paving will be a lot more permanent on mortar, although laid on sand or directly onto the soil should prove adequate.

A butyl liner will form to just about any shape but can be softened by using cloth or an old carpet to first line the base. Stretch out the liner as it's filling and avoid too many folds being produced.

The butyl liner will have to be secured over the top edge and held down with pavings or something similar, placed carefully around the perimiter.

Your planting should match the size of the pool and be aware not to overstock if you're putting fish into the pond. Also consider using tall plants or a tree to partially shade the sun. A little research into plant suitability and fish care can be sought from most garden and aquarium centres.

Mike Lyons.....Any questions! Please contact me.

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