Home
Newsletter
My Garden
Your Comments
Contact Me
Book Reviews
Landscaping Blog
AGGREGATES
ARBOURS
ARCHES
BARBECUES
BARK
BLOCK PAVING
BRICKWORK
BUILDING
CHALETS
CONCRETE
CONSERVATORIES
DECKING
DRAINAGE
DRIVEWAYS
EXCAVATION
FENCING
GARDEN DESIGN
GARDEN FURNITURE
GARDEN WALLS
GARDEN WILDLIFE
GATES
GAZEBOS
GRAVEL DRIVES
HOT TUBS
LANDSCAPE DESIGN
LAWNS
LIGHTING
LOG CABINS
MAKEOVERS
OUTBUILDINGS
PATHS
PATIOS
PAVING
PERGOLAS
PLAY AREAS
PONDS
ROOF GARDENS
STONEWORK
GARDEN TOOLS
GARDEN MACHINERY
RETAINING WALLS

XML RSS
Add to My Yahoo!
Add to My MSN
Add to Google

Excavation



Excavation to any serious depth should not be undertaken without professional advice, especially when weight bearing foundations are going to be set in place.

Calculations should be made prior to excavation taking place with disposal, earth movement and groung conditions being of prime importance.

When you're excavating for garden walls and concreting, a basic rule of thumb for the concrete size would be to add 100mm(4") either side of the width of your wall and the width of the wall equal to the depth of concrete.

So a 100mm(4") wall would require a 300mm(12") X 100mm(4") foundation. A 200mm(8") wall would require a 400mm(8") foundation.

When calculating excavation for trenches deeper than this you're entering the area of quantities having to be calculated for load bearing, tensile and compressive strength.

Trenches for foundations are difficult to level as you work so cut wooden pegs twice the depth of your proposed concrete, hammering them into the soil approximately the length of your level away from each other.

By doing this you won't have to try and level the base of an uneven trench while digging out, leaving all levelling above the messy base of digging, allowing you to transfer a level to each peg in turn.

Bearing the above in mind there must be a starting point and this would be as follows;

  • Dig down to find a suitably compact bed.
  • Knowing the depth of concrete, hammer your peg in leaving whatever depth it is you want, showing between the bottom and top of your peg.
  • Dig along the trench and set another peg in place as before, transfering the level at the top of the pegs.
  • Your guide is the depth from the top of the pegs down, which should be the same as peg 1.
  • Whenever the level of the base of the trench changes you will be alerted by measuring down from the top of the pegs as you progress.
  • In an ideal world, all pegs should be level...and the base should be consistently level.

What happens when you have to create a step due to the ground level changing drastically?

Adopt the same method as above EXCEPT where the step occurs there must be an overlap equal to the width of the concrete by double the depth.

e.g

When the concrete is 300mm(12") wide and 100mm(4") deep it will overlap by 300mm(12") to create a step 200mm(8") deep.

The rise will have to be contained when pouring concrete as the concrete will be parallel to your excavation.

Mike Lyons.....Any questions! Please contact me.

I'd welcome your comments, tips and suggestions, for more information click here

(BOOKMARK HOMEPAGE FOR QUICK REFERENCE)

Google



footer for excavation page